Simple PCB für Ardumower (discontinued)

Sascha

Sascha

Administrator
Staff member
Ich habe in den letzten Monaten, mit Bernard aus dem Ardumower Forum, eine einfache und simple Platine für den Ardumower entworfen.
Die Platine hat keine SMD Bauteile und kann von jedem, der einen Lötkolben halten kann, in kürzester Zeit selber gelötet werden.

Für einen funktionierenden Mähroboter werden folgende Teile benötigt:
1x DUE_PCB_V1.01
1x Charging_PCB
Software: Azuitber
Motortreiber mind. 3 (L298N/BTS7960B)
Akku
Motoren

Die passenden Gerber Dateien sind in meinem Github Account zu finden.
Wer sie nicht selber bestellen will, kann mir eine PM schicken und sie bei mir erwerben.

Die Hauptplatine:
Ardumower_PCB_oben.png


Power/Charging PCB:
charge_pcb.png
 
Last edited:
@Bernard
Today I got around to testing the board you send me.
I first had to get a new DUE without a pin header, not so easy.
Switching on via the button now works, the PCB stays on :))
Then I hope that I will soon be able to install it in the mower and continue with the brushless motors.
 
On this PCB the DUE comes under the PCB, thats not optimale. To Put the PCB in the top, you need a DUE without Headers.
When i am Back at Home, i will make a Photo
 
Paddy said:
Thanks for the photo. Looking at the chassis it seems well known to me. Is this a Tianchen?
Click to expand...
Yes it's a TC-G158
But i can't use it to mow because the 2 mow motor generate so many noise that I2C line freeze after 10 or 20 min and the perimeter is not read correctly.

Without mow motor it's work very well for many hours.

How did you solve this in the one you have ??
 
I never had any issues with I2C nor perimeter coils. The robot has been superseded just because I like to build new things.
You need to keep cables short, twisted and separate logic voltage and high voltage in separate cable looms. Also add ferrule to DC cables.

Do you also have same issues with origin Ardumower PCB? 1.2 still works fawless but my current mower with 1.3 PCB starts to fail regulary on I2C. I think it is caused by corrosive contacts and bad solder connection caused by heat. After 2 years outside, it doesn't look good anymore.
 
Paddy said:
Do you also have same issues with origin Ardumower PCB?
Click to expand...
Yes i also have this kind of issue on PCB1.3 (RTC or IMU random error 1 time each 50 or 100 mowing hours) but i had to say that i have not twisted cable and no ferrite.
And it's only in very wet grass and high power mowing.

I check if the teensy and new power PCB is better
 
Twisting cables and ferrite helps a lot. You seriously should do it. In past I often used telephone or ethernet cables for sensors as they are already twisted and maybe shielded. I just cut them at given length.
 
While I make small progress on my new robot, it's time to get a power pcb and this one looks promissing.
From my understanding, it should act as common Ardumower PCB does, like switch charge on/off, bypass battery to power robor from charger, when in station and also to switch robot off entirely.
There is no MCU placed, so this behavior must be implemented on a separate device, which is perfect to my Situation.

Is this correct so far? I miss a relay, did you replace it by a MOSFET and why? Also will this Board be able to handle higher voltages? My bot uses a 36V 10S2P battery so it will be up to 42V when charged.

Last question, do you have some spare PCB for me?

BR Patrick
 
Paddy said:
While I make small progress on my new robot, it's time to get a power pcb and this one looks promissing.
From my understanding, it should act as common Ardumower PCB does, like switch charge on/off, bypass battery to power robor from charger, when in station and also to switch robot off entirely.
There is no MCU placed, so this behavior must be implemented on a separate device, which is perfect to my Situation.
Click to expand...
Yes you are right.

I miss a relay, did you replace it by a MOSFET and why?
Click to expand...
The relay was exchanged for mofsets, this is called a high side switch. I don't like relays because they tend to stick together over time. And it should be cheap :)
Paddy said:
Also will this Board be able to handle higher voltages? My bot uses a 36V 10S2P battery so it will be up to 42V when charged.
Click to expand...
Not out off the Box, you have to adjust the mofsets and the resistances.
Last question, do you have some spare PCB for me?
Click to expand...
Yes, only PowerPCB?
 
Paddy said:
Where is INA226 located and what is it used for here? I see a footprint for an INA169 which should be able to handle 60V max.
Click to expand...
It's a power PCB that can manage sense (over I2C) for 5 motors and the battery control (ON/OFF/Charging).
 
Yes I know what INA226 is good for. My question is, where is it located on your power PCB. From my understanding, it is located on Teensy PCB, which doesn't fit to my current requirement. But power PCB looks promissing as I need to build exactly the same but to interface from a different main MCU.

Or do you also use INA226 on power PCB? In this case, does a INA169 fits also (pinout)?
 
The INA226 is on PowerPCB, you can use the PowerPCB on the Picture on Top of the Thread or the PowerPCB from the TeensyPCB.
You can used booth standalone.
Perhaps @Bernard has a Picture from the PowerPCB with the Inas.
 
Ah it seems we're talking about different PCBs? Power PCB for Teensy is different than the one in first picture (labeled as V1.02)? The picture of Bernhard showing Tianchen chassis seems also to be equipped with INA169 from Marotronics and doesn't use INA226.

I need a PCB using INA169 as this will be able to handle the voltage level I want to use. If it is not possible at all, I need to build my PCB but I try to avoid this.
 
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